Nira Rahman
CUNY Lehman College,
Department of Latin American and Latino Studies,
Department of Anthropology,
Lehman Scholars Program
CUNY Lehman College,
Department of Latin American and Latino Studies,
Department of Anthropology,
Lehman Scholars Program
This research project will focus on the fusion of traditional Bangladeshi (Bengali) cuisine with American cuisine as a result of immigration to the United States. At the forefront of this research will be the women in Bengali households who cook, experiment, and transform traditional Bengali and American recipes. Due to migration into a new country usually with no prior attachments or relationships, Bengali women needed to adapt to the environment, because of the lack of availability of certain key ingredients for their recipes, tools to transform the food, high prices for foreign items, or health and religious restrictions. These experiences expose Bengali immigrants to new forms of cooking styles or ingredients, which they incorporate into their existing knowledge of Bengali cooking. As a result, recipes that mix both Bengali and American styles are created, which becomes commonplace in their households. Through interviews with the women, this project serves as an example of original, ethnographic research in the Bronx.
INSPIRATION
In Krishnendu Ray’s book, The migrants table meals and memories in Bengali-American households traditional methods of Bengali cooking are detailed. Ray looked at middle-class Bengali immigrants originating from Calcutta, a state in India with a large Bangla-speaking population, also known as West Bengal. East Bengal refers to those who originate from Bangladesh and are referred to as Bangladeshi (Ray 2004, 16). For the purposes of simplification and since most Bangladeshis consider themselves “Bengali”, Bengali is used interchangeably with Bangladeshi in this project. Ray summarizes Bengali cooking as the combination of turmeric, dried red chili, cumin, coriander, and mustard with onion, ginger, and garlic paste added in varying amounts to vegetables, fish, and meat dishes (Ray 2004, 26). Traditionally, women are the primary preparers for food in the household; as such, they were the primary participants for this project. Similar to Ray, I grew up in a Bengali household and was exposed to traditional methods of cooking, recipes, and food habits. These experiences coupled with the fact that most of the Bengalis I know reside in the Bronx, provides a unique opportunity to conduct research the food habits and consumption of Bengali immigrants. Furthermore, another way of addressing these issues lies in the ways Bengali women transform traditional Bengali recipes by being exposed to the different cultures present in the Bronx.
In Krishnendu Ray’s book, The migrants table meals and memories in Bengali-American households traditional methods of Bengali cooking are detailed. Ray looked at middle-class Bengali immigrants originating from Calcutta, a state in India with a large Bangla-speaking population, also known as West Bengal. East Bengal refers to those who originate from Bangladesh and are referred to as Bangladeshi (Ray 2004, 16). For the purposes of simplification and since most Bangladeshis consider themselves “Bengali”, Bengali is used interchangeably with Bangladeshi in this project. Ray summarizes Bengali cooking as the combination of turmeric, dried red chili, cumin, coriander, and mustard with onion, ginger, and garlic paste added in varying amounts to vegetables, fish, and meat dishes (Ray 2004, 26). Traditionally, women are the primary preparers for food in the household; as such, they were the primary participants for this project. Similar to Ray, I grew up in a Bengali household and was exposed to traditional methods of cooking, recipes, and food habits. These experiences coupled with the fact that most of the Bengalis I know reside in the Bronx, provides a unique opportunity to conduct research the food habits and consumption of Bengali immigrants. Furthermore, another way of addressing these issues lies in the ways Bengali women transform traditional Bengali recipes by being exposed to the different cultures present in the Bronx.
BACKGROUND
According to the Asian American Federation’s Profile of New York City’s Bangladeshi Americans, the Bangladeshi population increased by 88% from 2010 to 2015 (Asian American Federation 2019, 1). This makes it the fastest growing population out of the other Asian groups. Moreover, 16% of Bengalis reside in the Bronx. In addition to the African American and Latin communities, the South Asian community make up an increasing proportion of the Bronx identity as is observed by Bengali-dominant neighborhood of Parkchester (Patel, Rajpathak and Karasz 2012, 768). A growing ethnic population may influence local culture, media, and services as was documented in places such as Canada where an increasing immigrant population from Hong Kong resulted in the establishment of Chinese businesses and the circulation of Chinese news and media (Lee and Tse 1994, 82). In New York City, it may also lead to more South-Asian restaurants in the community (Ray 2014, 390).
Another facet of society a growing Bengali population may impact is food consumption. Factors such as availability of traditional foods, prices for healthy foods, adjusting to a new lifestyle, the lack of familiarity to food products, and even digestion can pose as barriers to new immigrants (Popovic-Lipovac and Strasser 2013, 583-84). In fact, when Latina immigrant mothers’ cooking habits in the U.S. were analyzed, researchers found that they were the ones to provide homemade, nutritious meals to their children even though the children preferred to eat products such as pizza rolls, and the communities these families lived in had high prices for healthy food items (Greder, de Slowing, and Doudna 2012, 154-55). Furthermore, another study compared nutrition and diet in Mexican communities of California and Oaxaca. It found that migrants in California spoke to the paradox of living in a country with seemingly unlimited resources yet experiencing food insecurity and development of chronic diseases, whereas, back home the same individuals had access to a much greater variety of foods which were produced in the fields (Handley et al. 2012, 249). The same themes play out in Bangladeshi communities where cultural practices play a role in the types of foods prepared and consumed in Bengali households. A study analyzing the consumption of South Asian groups found that Bangladeshis cook more traditional foods out of the other Muslim groups studied, and certain dishes have a much higher fat content than others, resulting in higher risk for heart disease and obesity (Khamis, Judd, and Thomas 2000, 194). This places pressure on the food preparers in the household, often the mothers, to cook nutritious food based on the products available, while accommodating the tastes of the family members and upholding traditional values.
According to the Asian American Federation’s Profile of New York City’s Bangladeshi Americans, the Bangladeshi population increased by 88% from 2010 to 2015 (Asian American Federation 2019, 1). This makes it the fastest growing population out of the other Asian groups. Moreover, 16% of Bengalis reside in the Bronx. In addition to the African American and Latin communities, the South Asian community make up an increasing proportion of the Bronx identity as is observed by Bengali-dominant neighborhood of Parkchester (Patel, Rajpathak and Karasz 2012, 768). A growing ethnic population may influence local culture, media, and services as was documented in places such as Canada where an increasing immigrant population from Hong Kong resulted in the establishment of Chinese businesses and the circulation of Chinese news and media (Lee and Tse 1994, 82). In New York City, it may also lead to more South-Asian restaurants in the community (Ray 2014, 390).
Another facet of society a growing Bengali population may impact is food consumption. Factors such as availability of traditional foods, prices for healthy foods, adjusting to a new lifestyle, the lack of familiarity to food products, and even digestion can pose as barriers to new immigrants (Popovic-Lipovac and Strasser 2013, 583-84). In fact, when Latina immigrant mothers’ cooking habits in the U.S. were analyzed, researchers found that they were the ones to provide homemade, nutritious meals to their children even though the children preferred to eat products such as pizza rolls, and the communities these families lived in had high prices for healthy food items (Greder, de Slowing, and Doudna 2012, 154-55). Furthermore, another study compared nutrition and diet in Mexican communities of California and Oaxaca. It found that migrants in California spoke to the paradox of living in a country with seemingly unlimited resources yet experiencing food insecurity and development of chronic diseases, whereas, back home the same individuals had access to a much greater variety of foods which were produced in the fields (Handley et al. 2012, 249). The same themes play out in Bangladeshi communities where cultural practices play a role in the types of foods prepared and consumed in Bengali households. A study analyzing the consumption of South Asian groups found that Bangladeshis cook more traditional foods out of the other Muslim groups studied, and certain dishes have a much higher fat content than others, resulting in higher risk for heart disease and obesity (Khamis, Judd, and Thomas 2000, 194). This places pressure on the food preparers in the household, often the mothers, to cook nutritious food based on the products available, while accommodating the tastes of the family members and upholding traditional values.
METHODOLOGY
This research was conducted through interviews either in person or by phone (Kruzykowski 2007, 13). The participants were selected based on their location (whether they lived in the Bronx or not), and experience with cooking both Bengali and American food. A total of 6 participants were interviewed and 1-2 recipes were collected from each. The interview questions were structured around their experiences of when they first moved to America; specifically what the new environment was like and the accessibility to Bangladeshi food items. Then, I moved on to their impressions of when they first tried "American" food, their perceptions of health and what constitutes "healthy" versus "un-healthy food". The last portion of the interview consisted of a recipe that the participant would be willing to share, which they learned to cook after moving to the Bronx. These conversations were recorded by phone and since they were mainly in Bangla, they were later transcribed and translated into English. Finally, the backgrounds of the participants, the ingredients and directions of their recipes, and photos were all added to this webpage.
This research was conducted through interviews either in person or by phone (Kruzykowski 2007, 13). The participants were selected based on their location (whether they lived in the Bronx or not), and experience with cooking both Bengali and American food. A total of 6 participants were interviewed and 1-2 recipes were collected from each. The interview questions were structured around their experiences of when they first moved to America; specifically what the new environment was like and the accessibility to Bangladeshi food items. Then, I moved on to their impressions of when they first tried "American" food, their perceptions of health and what constitutes "healthy" versus "un-healthy food". The last portion of the interview consisted of a recipe that the participant would be willing to share, which they learned to cook after moving to the Bronx. These conversations were recorded by phone and since they were mainly in Bangla, they were later transcribed and translated into English. Finally, the backgrounds of the participants, the ingredients and directions of their recipes, and photos were all added to this webpage.
RESULTS
Alam
In 1990, Alam moved to the Bronx from Bangladesh with her husband and two young children. As with anyone coming to a new land with no prior attachments or family, Alam felt isolated and alone. She began to establish her community in the Bronx once she found other Bangladeshi women, which exposed her to American recipes. One of the first techniques she experimented with was baking, something that was uncommon back home since most Bangladeshi households did not have an oven. When asked about her relationship to cooking, Alam responded by saying that as a young girl she would follow her mother around in the kitchen, allowing her to retain the techniques used to sear fish or mix spices. The same curiosity followed her to America, and she was able to take what she had learned and incorporate it into new recipes. Below are some recipes she created:
In 1990, Alam moved to the Bronx from Bangladesh with her husband and two young children. As with anyone coming to a new land with no prior attachments or family, Alam felt isolated and alone. She began to establish her community in the Bronx once she found other Bangladeshi women, which exposed her to American recipes. One of the first techniques she experimented with was baking, something that was uncommon back home since most Bangladeshi households did not have an oven. When asked about her relationship to cooking, Alam responded by saying that as a young girl she would follow her mother around in the kitchen, allowing her to retain the techniques used to sear fish or mix spices. The same curiosity followed her to America, and she was able to take what she had learned and incorporate it into new recipes. Below are some recipes she created:
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Chowdhary
A year and a half after getting married, Chowdhury and her husband immigrated to the U.S. in 1989. At that time, there was not a sizable Bangladeshi population in the Bronx, however, Chowdhury’s neighbors were kind and helped her and her husband. Since both of her children were born in the U.S., she prepared American-inspired meals alongside more traditional Bangladeshi recipes by watching cooking shows. She added Bengali spices and cooking techniques to make those recipes her own. |
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Miah
As a child to immigrant parents, Miah grew up eating both traditional Bengali foods as well as trying new American recipes. When she left home to work towards her second Bachelor's degree in Nursing in SUNY Binghamton, she prepared food for herself. This is when her Bengali-American identity came through, which led to the creation of her Chicken Noodle Soup recipe. She uses the spices commonly used in Bengali cooking to flavor the chicken, but also incorporated vegetable stock, a more common ingredient in American recipes, to build the base of her soup. |
Tithi
In 2009, Tithi moved to America to start her new life with her husband who was raised in the Bronx. Like most new immigrants, she was exposed to a very different culture and the foods that come along with it. When asked about her views towards health in America and health in Bangladesh, Tithi discusses her mother's cooking. Back home, her mother would cook all three meals for Tithi and her brother. Fruits, vegetables, and fish were staples in the house, while meat was only eaten once a week. Other than the fact that the food was sometimes oily, the food itself was healthy and everything was locally produced and fresh. Now a mother of her own, Tithi upholds the same values in her home, while also learning about health living in America. The recipe below is one she grew up eating in Bangladesh but slightly modified to include ingredients found in the Bronx. The vegetables such as the fish provides calcium and protein, while the ginger and garlic are potent antibacterials. Chochuri refers to a curried dish with spices. |
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Jahan
When Jahan first arrived in America in 1996, she was surprised to find vegetables from back home lining the storefronts such as certain types of squash and spinach. Moreover, Asian groceries and markets sold fish that she was accustomed to eating in Bangladesh. Once Muslim-owned groceries selling halal meat were established, it further expanded the recipes she could cook. The presence of these foods helped her family adjust to the new environment while also maintaining the culture in the house. Her recipes are combination of those she learned from her mother and mother-in-law, from her peers, and recreating traditional recipes to suit her tastes. Both of the recipes below are a testament to her experiences in America. The Mixed Vegetables recipe is a staple in her home and is a combination of vegetables found in the supermarket. Tuna fish was not found in Bangladesh, but because it is available here, it gave Jahan an opportunity to create the kebab recipe. She saw this recipe first in Siddiqua Kabir's recipe book, a nutritionist and chef.
When Jahan first arrived in America in 1996, she was surprised to find vegetables from back home lining the storefronts such as certain types of squash and spinach. Moreover, Asian groceries and markets sold fish that she was accustomed to eating in Bangladesh. Once Muslim-owned groceries selling halal meat were established, it further expanded the recipes she could cook. The presence of these foods helped her family adjust to the new environment while also maintaining the culture in the house. Her recipes are combination of those she learned from her mother and mother-in-law, from her peers, and recreating traditional recipes to suit her tastes. Both of the recipes below are a testament to her experiences in America. The Mixed Vegetables recipe is a staple in her home and is a combination of vegetables found in the supermarket. Tuna fish was not found in Bangladesh, but because it is available here, it gave Jahan an opportunity to create the kebab recipe. She saw this recipe first in Siddiqua Kabir's recipe book, a nutritionist and chef.
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Hira
As the mother of two daughters growing up in America, Hira needed to prepare food that would suit their tastes, while also upholding the Bengali culture. Hira recounts her early experiences of trying American food at a McDonalds. Although the food tasted good, her doctor would warn her against consuming fast food. This is when Hira turned to baking and trying out recipes such as lasagna and chicken parmesan, which she learned through cookbooks. One recipe she cooks often is this Spanish-style chicken. The inspiration for this recipe came from her days working at her local KeyFood. Many of Hira's coworkers were Hispanic or Latino, and when she saw customers buying sofrito paste, she inquired about its use and found that it was added to chicken and soups. At home, Hira added the paste to her chicken in addition to her regular repertoire of Bengali spices, and her family loved it. By adding vegetables and rice on the side, it provided a full, nutritious meal. |
Conclusions
Overall, the findings from this project provide a basis to expand the ideas of food, health, and migration as it pertains to the Bangladeshi immigrant community in the Bronx. Unlike the narratives of previous studies where immigrants found themselves unable to adapt to the new environment due to the lack of traditional foods available, this is not the case with many of these women who were able to find local South-Asian markets or food items found in local groceries. In addition, it is common for Bengali women to feel isolated post-immigration, resulting in mental health issues of depression. By locating other Bengali immigrants, they were able connect and build a community in the Bronx and relieve these issues. Their recipes are a culmination of their experiences living in America, in most cases residing in the Bronx for over two decades. Further research can build on these ideas and explore the community connections that allow Bengalis to adapt to the Bronx, while also passing down cultural values through food.
Overall, the findings from this project provide a basis to expand the ideas of food, health, and migration as it pertains to the Bangladeshi immigrant community in the Bronx. Unlike the narratives of previous studies where immigrants found themselves unable to adapt to the new environment due to the lack of traditional foods available, this is not the case with many of these women who were able to find local South-Asian markets or food items found in local groceries. In addition, it is common for Bengali women to feel isolated post-immigration, resulting in mental health issues of depression. By locating other Bengali immigrants, they were able connect and build a community in the Bronx and relieve these issues. Their recipes are a culmination of their experiences living in America, in most cases residing in the Bronx for over two decades. Further research can build on these ideas and explore the community connections that allow Bengalis to adapt to the Bronx, while also passing down cultural values through food.
Works Cited
Asian American Federation. 2019. “Profile of New York City’s Bangladeshi Immigrants.” New York: 1-5.
Greder, K., Flor Romero de Slowing and Kimberly Doudna. 2012. “Latina Immigrant Mothers: Negotiating New Food Environments to Preserve Cultural Food Practices and Healthy Child Eating.” Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal, 41(2):145-160. doi:10.1111/fcsr.12004.
Handley, Margaret A., Marisela Robles, Eric Sanford, Natalie Collins, Hilary Seligman, Triveni Defries, Ramona Perez and Jim Grieshop. 2012. “Navigating changing food environments – Transnational perspectives on dietary behaviours and implications for nutrition counselling.” Global Public Health, 8(3): 245-257. doi:10.1080/17441692.2012.729218.
Khamis, Tasmin, P. A. Judd, and J. E. Thomas. 2000. “Frequency of consumption and nutrient composition of composite dishes commonly consumed in the UK by South Asian Muslims originating from Bangladesh, Pakistan and East Africa (Ismailis).” Journal of Human Nutrition and Dietetics, 13(3): 185-196.
Kruzykowski Katerina, G. 2007. “Reconciling Two Cultures: The Experience of Immigrants and First Generation Americans from Non-Western Countries.” Social Sciences Journal, 7(1): 11-22.
Lee, Wei-Na and David K. Tse. 1994. "Becoming Canadian: Understanding How Hong Kong Immigrants Change Their Consumption." Pacific Affairs 67: 70-95.
Patel, Viraj V., Swapnil Rajpathak, Alison Karasz. 2012. “Bangladeshi Immigrants in New York City: A Community Based Health Needs Assessment of a Hard to Reach Population.” Journal of Immigrant and Minority Health, 14: 767-773. doi:10.1007/s10903-011-9555-5.
Popovic-Lipovac, Ana, and Barbara Strasser. 2013. “A Review on Changes in Food Habits Among Immigrant Women and Implications for Health.” Journal of Immigrant and Minority Health,17(2): 582-590. doi:10.1007/s10903-013-9877-6.
Ray, Krishnendu. 2004. The migrants table meals and memories in Bengali-American households. Philadelphia: Temple University Press.
Ray, Krishnendu. 2014. “The Immigrant Restaurateur and the American City: Taste, Toil, and the Politics of Inhabitation.” Social Research, 81(2): 373–396. https://doiorg.lehman.ezproxy.cuny.edu/10.1353/sor.2014.0025.
Asian American Federation. 2019. “Profile of New York City’s Bangladeshi Immigrants.” New York: 1-5.
Greder, K., Flor Romero de Slowing and Kimberly Doudna. 2012. “Latina Immigrant Mothers: Negotiating New Food Environments to Preserve Cultural Food Practices and Healthy Child Eating.” Family and Consumer Sciences Research Journal, 41(2):145-160. doi:10.1111/fcsr.12004.
Handley, Margaret A., Marisela Robles, Eric Sanford, Natalie Collins, Hilary Seligman, Triveni Defries, Ramona Perez and Jim Grieshop. 2012. “Navigating changing food environments – Transnational perspectives on dietary behaviours and implications for nutrition counselling.” Global Public Health, 8(3): 245-257. doi:10.1080/17441692.2012.729218.
Khamis, Tasmin, P. A. Judd, and J. E. Thomas. 2000. “Frequency of consumption and nutrient composition of composite dishes commonly consumed in the UK by South Asian Muslims originating from Bangladesh, Pakistan and East Africa (Ismailis).” Journal of Human Nutrition and Dietetics, 13(3): 185-196.
Kruzykowski Katerina, G. 2007. “Reconciling Two Cultures: The Experience of Immigrants and First Generation Americans from Non-Western Countries.” Social Sciences Journal, 7(1): 11-22.
Lee, Wei-Na and David K. Tse. 1994. "Becoming Canadian: Understanding How Hong Kong Immigrants Change Their Consumption." Pacific Affairs 67: 70-95.
Patel, Viraj V., Swapnil Rajpathak, Alison Karasz. 2012. “Bangladeshi Immigrants in New York City: A Community Based Health Needs Assessment of a Hard to Reach Population.” Journal of Immigrant and Minority Health, 14: 767-773. doi:10.1007/s10903-011-9555-5.
Popovic-Lipovac, Ana, and Barbara Strasser. 2013. “A Review on Changes in Food Habits Among Immigrant Women and Implications for Health.” Journal of Immigrant and Minority Health,17(2): 582-590. doi:10.1007/s10903-013-9877-6.
Ray, Krishnendu. 2004. The migrants table meals and memories in Bengali-American households. Philadelphia: Temple University Press.
Ray, Krishnendu. 2014. “The Immigrant Restaurateur and the American City: Taste, Toil, and the Politics of Inhabitation.” Social Research, 81(2): 373–396. https://doiorg.lehman.ezproxy.cuny.edu/10.1353/sor.2014.0025.